Hellin Kay
Valery Joseph is not your typical hairstylist: First of all he's straight (and has a lovely wife and three adorable sons, for the record). Second, he came into the beauty biz by way of…working in the Israeli army. It's true. But more on that later.
The ladies who lunch uptown in NYC already know about him—his high-end eponymous salon are in three locations in the city and one in the Hamptons—and this month, he will gain major success when he opens a spot inside Barneys New York' newly renovated beauty floor on Madison Ave. The B3 Barneys Blow Bar by Valery Joseph marks the first time the specialty store has opened a salon (watch out John Barrett/Bergdorf Goodman!), and the sleek space will house seven chairs with one "star stylist chair" (for Joseph). Though it's called a blow-dry bar, it will offer a range of services: haircuts (from $250), blowouts (from $85), updos (from $200), extensions (from $600 for a full set), and treatments (like Express Kérestase, $50).
Before the doors open this weekend, we chatted with the hair man of the moment on how he found his way to a pair of styling scissors, the best tips for extending your blowout, the unexpected trick for growing your locks long, and why soaking your mane in water has mega benefits.
How did your partnership with Barneys come to be?
I opened my first location 11 years ago, and was catering to the beautiful clientele of the Upper East Side—who are clients of Barneys, as well. In time, we created a great brand, a place where socialites and hip mothers come, and we beautify them. Some of them were raving about us to Barneys, so the whole idea started a year ago when someone asked me a question: "What do you think about opening a place in Barneys?" I said, "Oh my God, that's great!" I love the store, I love the whole concept, so we took it from there.
You were once in the Israeli army, how did you end up in hair care?
When I was 14 or 15, I had a summer job at my neighbor's salon. I never thought I would be a hairdresser, but that was my first introduction to the business. I studied architecture, so I really thought that I wanted to continue with that profession. When I went to the army, I got injured, so I couldn't do [anything for them]. They asked me what else I could do, and I told them, "I can be an architect or I can cut hair"—and they liked that I could cut hair. They decided to upgrade the services at one of the bases in Tel Aviv. You don't really get paid that much in the army, so they wanted to offer hair services, as well. So they trained me for five months in one of the upscale schools of hairstyling. When I finished serving in the army after cutting hair for two years, I realized that I really love hair.
Did your background in architecture affect your ability to frame a face with a great haircut?
The elements of architecture give me a different handle on how to look at different types of hair and how to structure the right haircut for the right face. It's really pleasant to see that very quick result by giving the right haircut to the right person. When people leave happy, it fulfills me creatively. I love making people feel good about themselves. That's what makes me love what I do.
You have long hair yourself. What are your tips for ladies who want to grow their hair out?
It depends on the individual client, because there's wavy hair, scraggly hair, straight hair, etc. The biggest problem that we have in the industry is people that want to grow their hair, and then the ends are fried or very thin looking, and they don't want to let go of that and let it grow [in] healthier. Once you trust your stylist—if someone has fine or thin or over-processed ends—the first haircut should start the process of growing hair as healthy as can be. If ends are split, they will continue splitting, so the first thing is to take all of the split ends off, and then slowly, slowly starting the process of growing hair from there. I recommend little trims every two to three months—it's almost like going one step backwards to take three steps forward. It's a process, and there are a lot of elements that you need to try at home.
Any unusual hair secrets?
One recommendation I give my clients—especially if they swim in the pool or salt water—is to soak the hair in water with a higher pH-mineral water if you want to get really fancy. The hair really absorbs the water, and it prevents the soaking of the chlorine or salty water. When you're using heat protecting products before blow-drying, you always want your hair to be coated with a product that will prevent too much exposure with heat.
What are your tips for making a blowout last longer?
The biggest problem is humidity or if you sleep over your hair, and then you wake up in the morning and it's one big mess. For straight hair, try a soft, high ponytail with a soft rubber band. If you have wavy hair, part your hair in the middle and put it in two very soft braids. You want to keep your hair under control. You can't do much about sweating, so if you take a shower, put a shower cap on to try to keep the steam from coming in contact with the hair and getting frizzy. In the morning, don't be afraid to take a brush and a blow dryer and just go over the hair in the front. The hair has memory, so with a good blowout, the hair should last two or three days. Also, if you have hair that gets oily, dry shampoo works really well.
What's your best tough-love advice for women who mistreat their hair?
Hot devices can be a big factor in hair health. Try not to use them on a regular basis—save it more for a special occasion or event. I tell my clients that there's a lot of coordination involved when trying to use the tools, so practice when the tool is cold to get the hang of it and the right angle. Holding the heat on the hair is what really damages the hair. You don't need to do it for more than a second in one spot. If you touch the hot iron or flat iron with your finger, you're going to burn it right away. It's the same with hair. If you use less heat, then you can hold it a little longer on the hair. Curl your hair not so much on the ends, but from the roots until you reach the ends. The ends are the weakest part the hair.
Tell us about some hair trends that you're loving for fall.
I'm a [fan] of long hair—[if it's] healthy, of course. We do a lot of face framing, soft bangs—you don't want them to fall too heavy on your forehead. For those who really want a bit of change and to be daring, bobs are coming back. Nicole Kidman has a beautiful bob right now, with a lot of soft framing around her face, almost like a bang. That's a very good look right now. The lob—between a bob and long hair, falling almost on your collarbone area, with soft [angles] framing the face. For color, a lot of people tend to go strawberry blonde. People who want to be more daring with color go a little darker in the fall and winter. Braids are also back again—when you go out, it's so easy to create fun braids. You can braid above your forehead, around your temple. You can create a soft side braid—a tousled, not-too-tight, loose look.
What does all of this success mean to you?
I'm flattered to call it a success. It's fulfilling for me and my staff that we keep growing and doing a great job. This success just gives me more motivation and energy to continue what I do. When I get good feedback from people who love their hair, [it reminds me] why I do what I do. I think I do it well, and that success just makes me a little more creative and on top of the game.
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